Could SHEIN Become London’s Biggest IPO?
Chloé Asconi-Feldman
In November 2023, SHEIN, the controversial fast-fashion Singapore-based brand filed an initial public offering (IPO). While initially planning on listing shares in New York, the UK chancellor has recently met with the SHEIN executive chair and it is now rumoured that SHEIN will become a listing in London. What is the reason for this sudden change, and what does this mean for LSE?
Why London?
The switch from New York to London may be in part due to the unlikeliness that the US Securities and Exchange Commission would approve its IPO. Despite the great efforts the company has made to shift its reputation in Washington and beyond, by spending millions of dollars on lobbying and meeting privately with lawmakers, it is predicted that the US will not approve its IPO. This is because of Shein’s supply chain and its ties to the Chinese Communist Party; Senator Marco Rubio stated in a letter to the Securities and Exchange Commission (SEC) that they should enhance disclosures when dealing with SHEIN compared to the protocol with an average company, and urged them to protect U.S. investors by blocking SHEIN’s offer.
Founded in China, SHEIN has been accused of using forced labour to produce their clothing where costs start as low as a couple of dollars for a t-shirt. With manufacturing focused in the Xinjiang region, the company continues to deny these allegations, claiming they have a zero-tolerance policy for forced labour. Although the company is considering Hong Kong and Singapore as potential markets, the benefits of a Western stock listing in London would position the company differently in the eyes of investors, implying higher levels of transparency and corporate governance.
Economic Impact: SHEIN Revitalising the LSE?
According to data compiled by Bloomberg, last year the UK raised about $1 billion through IPOs which has been the lowest level in decades. Struggling to stay afloat as a global financial centre after leaving the European Union, the majority of the companies that have come to market are trading below their IPO prices. A major cause for this is due to companies leaving the London Stock Exchange in favour of the Nasdaq in New York for its lower listing fees and constraints. Due to this decline, there have been developing reforms to boost the UK as a destination for listing, making it easier for companies to list more quickly, and in the case of SHEIN, go through less scrutiny than they would in New York. Despite the steady decline, there is still significant value in the market, having a wave of private equity takeovers of UK-listed companies.
If SHEIN were to go ahead in London, this could be huge for the city and the country’s standing as a global financial centre. Such a listing could even place the IPO in record books, as Bloomberg reports that the company would raise more than $10.7 billion by selling shares to the public, distinguishing it as the biggest British IPO ever. With such a title, this could profit both London as a financial centre and SHEIN as a company, increasing the amount of companies that may choose to list in London by augmenting confidence in non-Western firms looking to enter new markets.


