Ayesha Ahmed
When I think of Dublin-based retailer Penneys, I think of a quote by Tesco’s founder Jack Cohen: “Pile it high, sell it cheap”, something he says when referring to having a successful business. I have yet to learn about Tesco’s economic practices, but Penney’s has taken this to heart and astutely follows this mantra. Penneys (known as Primark outside of Ireland), founded in 1969 in Dublin by Arthur Ryan, has become a global retail phenomenon. With its headquarters on Mary Street, the company has built a reputation for offering “Amazing Fashion, Amazing Prices.” Customers flock to Penneys stores worldwide, including loyal Trinity students who visit weekly to get their “Penneys fix.”
Company Background
Firstly, it is important to obtain some background information on Penneys, which is a subsidiary of Associated British Foods known for selling both food and apparel. Conversely, Penneys, as anybody familiar with the brand would know, has everything in abundance from clothing, accessories, beauty, footwear, and my favourite, homeware. The product line caters to women, children, pets, and men. According to their website, they employ over 79,000 people, and between 2017 and 2018 opened 16 new stores creating over 4,660 jobs. As a company, they provide in-house employee training programmes, from formal induction to customer promise training for retail employees. Today, ABF’s subsidiary has more than 374 stores globally, maintaining a presence in the Republic of Ireland, the UK, Spain, Germany, Portugal, Netherlands, Belgium, Austria, France, Italy, and the Northeast region of the USA, with more to come.
The business model of Penneys is centred around delivering value to consumers by offering high-quality products at the lowest possible prices; the high-quality label is self-proclaimed and often highly contested. However, such a claim is achieved through tight control over the supply chain and a high-volume, low-margin production strategy. Penneys can minimise costs and pass on significant savings to customers by negotiating favourable contracts with suppliers and maintaining highly efficient distribution channels.
There are various reasons why Penneys is a success story at a time when competitors like Forever 21 filed for ‘Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection’ or the end of Payless ShoeSource. This false ‘luxury’ shoe shop made numerous influencers fall for it in the United States;
the company strategically changed its name from Penneys to Primark to expand its reach beyond Ireland as the name “Penney” was trademarked by JCPenney. Fortunately for the brand, Primark is a high-performing retailer, and JCPenney is dealing with constant store closures. Another success factor can be attributed to the day when Arthur Ryan convinced Galen Weston, ABF’s kingpin, to try his hand at apparel, which was a life-altering decision for the future of Primark and helped secure its financial future.
Areas of Weakness: Online Presence, Fast Fashion & Ethics
No company is without weakness, and Penneys has three significant areas of concern, mainly limited online presence, unethical labour practices, and a negative environmental impact. Penneys has been criticised for its limited online presence by many critics, from the Irish Times to the Financial Times. This lack of presence may hinder its ability to reach customers in remote locations or adapt to the ever-changing consumer preferences. However, in recent news, Penneys did introduce a click-and-collect trial for kid swear and women’s clothing (in the UK). Penneys has to differentiate itself from competitors; it is essential to consider the long-term implications of this strategy in a rapidly evolving retail landscape. Nevertheless, accounts filed with the Companies Registration Office showed that Primark Limited made a profit before tax of €394 million in 2022. This was a significant increase compared to 2021’s pre-tax profit of €19 million, which was affected by the COVID-19 pandemic. Total turnover for the year was €3.2 billion, up from nearly €2.4 billion in the year before.
Additionally, Penneys distinguished itself from other fast-fashion brands by having a transnational strategy approach due to their goal of achieving a balance between global integration and local responsiveness. Primark’s ability to source products from Asia and some parts of Europe allows it to provide its diverse range of items at such low prices. Customers can find items such as a pack of three stockings for less than five euros, a testament to the company’s commitment to affordability. Additionally, Penneys quick turnover of styles, wide product range, strong physical presence, and economies of scale contribute to its success. The company’s dependence on brick-and-mortar stores, however, makes it vulnerable to changes in consumer preferences and regional economic shocks. On the flip side, it increases loyalty. The brand has a loyal customer base and enjoys strong brand recognition; the 10.4 billion euros in sales revenue for 2023 can be a testament to its customers’ love for it. Each company is different, and not every new change in the market favours each company. Unlike their €1.50 mittens, they are not one-size-fits-all.
While Penneys has gained popularity for its affordable fashion and home goods, it has faced criticism and controversy regarding its ethical practices. These concerns can be examined using the company’s annual reports and public disclosures. One striking area of ethical concern is labour practices. Penneys has faced allegations of unethical labour conditions such as low wages, poor working conditions, and exploitation of workers. An infamous example is a Bangladeshi supplier called Rana Plaza in 2013, which had a structural collapse. Penneys has since then tried to address these issues by implementing a Supplier Code of Conduct and building safety programs in five countries, including Bangladesh, to prevent another disaster.
Another ethical concern is the negative environmental impact found in the fast-fashion industry. As mentioned, Penneys’ business model is centred around offering high-volume, low-cost products, contributing to overconsumption, disposal of clothing and environmental degradation. It is essential to assess Penneys’ sustainability initiatives and their effectiveness in mitigating these impacts. The company recently launched a circular product collection scheme based on the Circular Product Standard, highlighting a step in the right direction. However, it is essential to evaluate the scale and impact of this collection on Penneys’ overall product range to determine if it is a substantial effort or merely a form of greenwashing. The percentage of products from this collection relative to the company’s overall product range will provide insight into the scale and impact of Penneys’ sustainability efforts and whether they are substantial or merely tokenistic.
The Future for Penneys
Looking ahead, Penneys has several opportunities for growth and improvement. Despite its rejection of e-commerce expansion, some critics say it might have helped with brand differentiation in an overcrowded market. With growing eco-conscious values augmenting amongst consumers, Penneys could introduce initiatives to improve its ethical and sustainable practices, like competitor H&M’s ‘Conscious’ line. Market expansion is another avenue for Penneys’ future growth. Exploring new markets in Asia, Latin America, and Canada could help the company reduce its reliance on European markets and explore more environmentally friendly operations.
Penneys can take its sustainability efforts to broader contexts by aligning operative standards with Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) and potential legislative pressures the company may face. The SDGs, adopted by the United Nations, provide a framework for sustainable development globally. Evaluating Penneys’ initiatives in light of relevant SDGs can highlight areas where the company aligns with or falls short of international sustainability targets. For example, initiatives related to SDG 8, Economic Growth and SDG 12, Responsible Consumption and Production, are particularly relevant to Penneys’ ethical and sustainability concerns; providing concrete evidence of working towards these goals could shift the brand away from its controversial market status. Furthermore, legislative pressures and regulations in the fashion industry, such as extended producer responsibility (EPR) policies and regulations on waste management can impact Penneys’ future strategies from an external perspective. Analysing potential legislative risks and challenges will provide a more holistic understanding of the factors that may influence Penneys’ sustainability efforts and shape its future success.